-Jack Tackle, in reference to Alaska

Alaska has been the proverbial “elephant in the room” in my life for many years. Most alpine climbers dream of their golden ticket to Alaska, but for me it’s been more of a spicy mixed concoction of dreams and fears.

In high school, I talked a big game in sports, but the reality was that I was skinny and short. I feared the days when an opponent would actually want to go toe-to-toe, but that didn’t stop me from putting on the toughest face possible and talking more shit than Mike Tyson. Fortunately, my trash talking was backed up with some of the quickest legs on campus and I never had step into the ring with an opponent.

I’ve always had an inner dialog of trash talking. No matter what the objective, big or small, I always portrayed myself as collected and confident. When climbing or kayaking partners sensed that I was concerned, it was usually a sign that “Type 4″ fun was about to begin. For many years, this whole system has worked extremely well for me. The evening before a major objective is like a weigh-in before a boxing match: my conscious strengths go to battle with my subconscious demons.

For me, Alaska was the opponent who knew my weaknesses and not only could trash talk better than Muhammad Ali, but could also put a serious beating on me once I stepped into the range.

I am the greatest, I said that even before I knew I was.
-Muhammad Ali 

On Tuesday, April 16th, I received a call from Doug Shepherd, who spoke three words “High Pressure Alaska.” Doug has been successful using his mad scientist skills to play Russian Roulette, identifying weather windows and making sniper-like assaults in the mountains. His plan was to fly out Friday evening, April 19th, arrive in Anchorage around midnight, make a quick stop for some food, and then rally into Talkeetna. Saturday morning, we would fly into the range, hit the ground running with high hopes of getting in a big route, and then fly out Monday morning to catch our flights home and be ready to work Tuesday morning.

Next thing I know, I’m booking a ticket to Alaska and 24-hours later I’m heading for a place I have both dreamed about and feared for many years. My nerves begin to fray as Doug presents our possible objectives.

The stoke rises as packing begins and the weather window gets better and better. Our plans begin to materialize and Mt. Huntington becomes our primary target. The Colton-Leach route is our first choice and as I surf the web for beta, I begin to realize this mountain is much bigger than anything I have climbed before.

After sleeping for only a few hours, Doug and I begin loading our stuff into the plane. I notice that we are the black sheep with only two bags to load, versus the other parties who have packed for multiple weeks in the range. We will be in and out before most parties even begin to start climbing, but it’s sorta nice to know we won’t be spending multiple days crammed together in a tent.

Every climbing partner has quirks…. Doug likes to climb with a stuffed pig. I love the guy’s face behind Doug, wondering “Who IS this guy?”

 It was a quick morning of sorting gear and eating one last big meal before heading out. Once loaded on the plane, it was time to put on the game face.

They call it an instrument “cluster” for a reason.

It’s amazing what the guys at Talkeetna Air taxi can do with airplanes. I hope I don’t have to take over the controls at any point.

Flying into the range you realize how wild and scenic Alaska really is

As a first-timer flying into the Alaska range, the flight was both inspiring and daunting. The mountains are big and relentless. I felt like the new kid in school flying down the hallways. This was my weigh-in, where my inner dialogue of trash talking began, though the mountains were intimidating. As we flew beneath their summits, they were glowering, gesturing and gloating… “Come on up, Sucka!”

Mt. Huntington rising from the Tokositna glacier

The plane makes a quick spiral descent toward the Tokositna Glacier, into the tight constraints below Mt. Huntington. Now face-to-face with our objective, I begin to wonder if my success in the middle-weight class of mountains has prepared me for this heavy-weight bout.

As the plane rises out of the valley and off into the distance, the sound begins to fade and I suddenly realize I’m in the ring.

To be continued…..

The post Alaska- Check your ego at the gate appeared first on COLDFEAR.

Sorry for the lack of posts and I have a ton of stuff to catch up on but for now here are some paddling goods from the last couple of days.

The last couple of days we have been paddling Crandall Creek and the water got bigger each day

Day 1 was low but fun for first strokes of the year. Morgan Heimer gets his first run down Crandall Falls

Nate Winning taking his last stroke before impact

Morgan Heimer taking it from the top

Mulkey Going deep into the falls

A game of River Jenga

Jake Skeen enjoying some high water

A fine day in the hills and psyched spring is here!

The post Spring Has Sprung appeared first on COLDFEAR.

on our way into the Tokositna Glacier below Mt. Huntington

Just got back from a quick trip to Alaska for a “Smash and Grab” adventure.

After an incredible route and 36 hours hours of climbing we were awaiting our ride out and taking in the scenery

Trip report coming soon !

The post The Last Frontier appeared first on COLDFEAR.

Aaron Mulkey looking into the norwegian dreamland

Aaron Mulkey on the First Ascent of The Gambler

Aaron Mulkey droping Cabin Creek Falls

My Incredible family

The post Walking On A Dream appeared first on COLDFEAR.

The best part about being out this time of year is finding nice surprises..

The post Still Winter… appeared first on COLDFEAR.

The training continues and staying focused remains the goal. I will begin sharing more training pieces written by Connie at The Alpine Training Center on a weekly basis.

Warmup 10 minutes of 10x goblet squat + 10x KB swings @20kg…don’t put KB down, rest as needed, must hold w/ 2 hands at all times – even during rest.

Training

6 rounds

Barbell complex w/ pushup chaser 85# (Dead Lift, Row, Clean, Front Squat, Push Press, Back Squat)

5x K2E on tools

10x pullups on tools

20x plank kicks ea side

30 sec slasher halo 12kg

40x alternating DB bench press 30-35#DBs

50x stepups AFAP

60 sec FLR

60 sec mobility of choice

The post Between the Lines appeared first on COLDFEAR.

Check it out…. Go to collections then Rab Ouray Ice Shoot

Jeremiah Watt 

The post Rab Photo Shoot appeared first on COLDFEAR.

Horsetail

Mean Green

Upper pitches of Mean Green

Duck Soup

Hunter Creek Pillar

Bozos Revenge

Trying to make a comeback….

Spring in the Valley

The post April Ice in the South Fork Valley appeared first on COLDFEAR.

More to come…  I will start posting again 2-3 times a week.

The post Norway Appetizer appeared first on COLDFEAR.

Full movie will be released in the Fall of 2013

The Pursuit – Official Trailer from Aaron Mulkey on Vimeo.

Supported by: Rab, Sterling Rope, Cilogear, Scarpa, Grivel, Alpine Training Center, Sweet Protection and Liberty Mountain

Big thanks to my partners who made this film happen
Stephen Berwanger
Kevin Craig
Tanner Callender
Kelly Dedel
Ben Winston
Bent Vidar Eilersten
Jørgen Amot

The post The Pursuit Movie Trailer appeared first on COLDFEAR.