“The Patriarch” First Ascent

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I have seen this small smear form up a few times over the years, but it has never gotten fat enough to ever protect and most years it never was close to touching. Over a two week period I watched this smear of ice start to form and at one point the lower half fell down. The temps and days had to align perfectly to keep this smear forming.

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The smear is very visible from the road spilling off the prominent cliff. The climb gets sun until about 11am and then goes into the shade which is why its forming. If it got anymore sun in the day it would never form. The days and temps aligned and it looked like we had one day to get this thing done before it fell down. I was hoping that it would be protectable, but just in case I brought the drill to ensure this thing would go down. If it wasn’t going to be protectable  in the incredible conditions we have had this year it was simply not going to ever happen.

Tanner enjoying the spring conditions and his poor mans dry suit.

Tanner enjoying the spring conditions and his poor mans dry suit.

 

The river crossing was cold, but DRY!

The river crossing was cold, but DRY!

All the mountains around Cody are experiencing an epic snow pack. Tnankfully the snow was super consolidated and there was very little post holing.

All the mountains around Cody are experiencing an epic snow pack. Tnankfully the snow was super consolidated and there was very little post holing.

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Aaron Mulkey rappelling in to check it out

After a good look at the climb we came to the conclusion it was just not possible to protect the climb at all. I rappelled in hoping to see some sort of gear, but the ice was just to thin or delaminated. The very top curtain had potential for a screw at the top, but at that point the climbing was over. I decided to place bolts so that the climb could also be done when its even more mixed and I know others will appreciate the bolts when they see this climb. I like to put up climbs that others will want to come and do and there is no doubt this climb will get some traffic now that it is protectable.

Aaron Mulkey Placing some bolts

Aaron Mulkey Placing some bolts

Aaron Mulkey on the First Ascent of "The Patriarch"

Aaron Mulkey on the First Ascent of “The Patriarch” Photo by Nathan Danforth

 

Mulkey tiptoeing his way up

Mulkey tiptoeing his way up

Mulkey enjoying the thin climbing.

Mulkey enjoying the thin climbing.

The climbing is super fun and I would highly recommend it. The best part, the approach is only about 45 minutes and most times the river is frozen, but bring trash bags just in case. The climb is located about 30 miles up the North Fork above Blackwater Creek. You cant miss it!


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